By Kharla (with a KH, ladies) | Fashion Director, IRREVERENT Magazine
⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5
Four out of five. The missing star is Tomás's fault.
Matthieu Blazy sent his Resort 2026 collection down the runway in Milan with the quiet confidence of a man who has never once Googled himself and is therefore at peace. The silhouettes were restrained — purposefully, artfully restrained, the way a person is restrained who knows exactly how much money they are about to charge you. Fluid trousers in oatmeal and burnt sienna. Knit dresses that appeared simple until you got close enough to see that each one contained approximately three years of someone's life. The new neutrals this season are doing something I can only describe as emotionally grey, which is to say they are the color of an airport lounge in a country where you don't speak the language and you've just checked your last Diptyque candle as baggage and it almost certainly did not survive.
The leather goods — always the point, let's not pretend otherwise — arrived in the now-legendary intrecciato weave: the overlapping strips of buttery calfskin that have made Bottega Veneta simultaneously the most restrained and the most devastating brand in the Western world. The Resort 2026 Andiamo in *cotto*, a deep terracotta that is basically the color of Tuscany if Tuscany went to therapy, is a masterwork of proportion. Structured at the spine, forgiving at the body. A bag that holds its shape under pressure.
I know something about this. Specifically, I know something about this because I was in Cap Ferrat in March with a man named Tomás, who was an art dealer in the way that certain men are art dealers, which is to say he had expensive taste, excellent cheekbones, and a flexible relationship with provenance. He had a house on a cliff. He had two boats, one of which he claimed was "for the crew," and I have been around enough boats to know that this particular crew consisted entirely of bottles of Whispering Angel and a bluetooth speaker. We spent four days there. I wore linen. I looked extraordinary. On the third evening I knocked an entire glass of rosé directly into my Bottega Andiamo — the 2024, bordeaux colorway — and I watched the wine simply disappear into the weave, leaving no trace, like a secret kept beautifully.
I thought: this bag is better at handling things than I am.
The Tomás situation resolved itself the way these things do, which is to say it didn't, and some weeks later I found myself at a dinner in Paris seated next to the Belgian — I won't name her, she knows who she is, she's been banned from two Chanel ateliers for what I can only describe as "creative differences with factual reality" — who had heard something, or claimed she had, and spent forty-five minutes asking about "that art person in the south of France" while systematically dismantling a soufflé. I was wearing borrowed Saint Laurent. There is a small cigarette burn on the left cuff now that was either the Belgian's doing or mine; I refuse to determine which.
The Saint Laurent has not been returned. This is its own situation.
But back to the bag, because here is where the actual fashion criticism lives, crouching like a nervous intern between the personal disclosures: the hardware this season deserves a specific mention. Blazy has reduced it nearly to nothing — the clasp is a small, almost tactile knob in oxidized silver, the kind of detail you only notice when someone is looking closely. It is the opposite of logomania. It says: I know what I have. I don't need to tell you. In an era when half the runway looks like a sponsored post and the other half looks like a sponsored post trying to look like it isn't a sponsored post, this restraint reads as a genuine act of courage. The Resort 2026 collection is not trying to go viral. It is trying to go to dinner, drink your wine, outlast your marriages, and still look incredible on the shelf in forty years. Fashion criticism begins and ends there. The Belgian would disagree. The Belgian once called a Proenza Schouler bag "accessible," and I have not spoken to her directly since.
I wore a different Bottega — the Intrecciato Cassette, slate, 2025 — to the only good dinner I had in Paris that month, which was also the night I realized I was never going to hear from Tomás about the painting we'd discussed, the small slash-canvas he'd said was practically mine, which was apparently his way of saying it was practically anyone's who asked first. I set the bag on the table the way you set something down when you need to look at an object and feel certain. It is structured but forgiving. It holds its shape. It has never once looked at me the way Tomás looked at the painting.
The Resort 2026 collection is a war crime of wanting things you cannot afford and a genius act of making you feel briefly that you can. I mean this as a compliment. Four stars out of five. The missing star is Tomás's fault.
Buy the bag. Don't buy the man.
Kisses, K.
Kharla is the Fashion Director of IRREVERENT Magazine. She has attended fashion weeks on five continents, been asked to leave runway shows on three of them, and maintains that she is twenty-nine. IRREVERENT Magazine neither confirms nor denies the existence of Tomás, the Belgian, or the painting.